Marrakesh does not have the charms of Fez, but it used to have a wildness that made it fascinating. Unfortunately some of that is gone, with the main square, Jemaa El Fnaa, tarted up beyond recognition. It still has Berber bands, child boxers and the like, but is now paved and the food stalls are organised and brightly lit. They are strictly segregated by menu and price - tourists sticking to the kebabs and tajines, and avoiding the goats' head.
On the way there we got stuck in a human traffic impasse in one of the narrow streets. A cyclist lifted his bike over his head to push through, while those with mopeds just pushed. Just when it was at its worst, a carriage and two horses joined the crush.
Leaving Marrakesh for Agadir, we have three in the car for the first time. With no back seats, Steffi arranged herself on baggage and pillows and decided it was far more comfortable than sitting in the front.
