Sahara

East of the Atlas mountains, the sheep and goats have less green stuff. There is hardly a tree to be seen, and the hills show sedimentary folds. They are full of fossils, judging by the number of roadside stalls selling them.

Near the town of Erfoud we turned off the tarred road onto sandy piste, and headed for a mobile phone mast. Beyond we could see white hills, the first big dunes of the Sahara. As we got closer they became red and filled the horizon - this was Erg Chebbi. It was a fine introduction to the desert, if diminished a little by the presence of half a dozen French camper vans. We stayed at Auberge du Sud, being rebuilt after destruction by floods last year. 

By sunset, a couple of obliging camels had delivered us to the highest dune, where we stayed until the evening star appeared.