Into Tunisia

The Mediterranean coast of Algeria is to be avoided for security reasons, and the central deserts are not as dramatic as those of the South, comprising of difficult sand seas, or Ergs. So, like most foreign travellers on the route, we made for Tunisia, covering the remaining 600km to the border at Taleb Larbi in another long day.

Stuck one last time, rescued by a truck

Approaching the Tunisian border 

At El Oeud, a well populated series of oases, we tanked up to the maximum with 15c diesel. The next fuel (in Tunisia) would cost three times more (and then three times more again in Italy). Djafar guided us through the last couple of hours of officialdom, and pocketed his tip and present without looking at it. We said our goodbyes, we will miss his company after a very enjoyable couple of weeks.

Farewell to our Algerian Guide 

The officials at both borders only glanced at the car contents, I think they are a bit intimidated by the amount of gear and would not know where to start a search. The Tunisian Customs asked if we have any electronics - they have a thing about GPSs - and we said "No". Since every single overlander car has a GPS, they evidently find it less hassle to ask and then not to look. 

Culture shock in Tezeur, the centre of Tunisian Desert Tourism. A whole neighbourhood of hotels in the Zone Touristique, ATMs that actually accept our cards, gleaming convoys of tour group 4WDs. Con was here before and remembers a much quieter place.

We did not linger. On the road north we experienced the first sprinkling of rain since Morocco. We overnighted at the holy city of Kairouan in an old fashioned hotel. It is clear we are back on the tourist trail, tourist shop-keepers start with 1000% of the next offer price. 

The Dutch went to Tunis to apply for their visas for Libya, we went to the coastal resort of Hammamet. From the shops and hotels it is indistinguishable from Agadir or any of 100 places on the Mediterranean. It has a nice beach, deserted apart from a lonely camel and its owner. We stayed at the Citroniers, where Con had been many years ago. 

Two hours of professional cleaning transformed the car, with an impressive amount of the Sahara blasted out of the back by compressor. It also got another oil change, and some attention from an electrician and a tyre shop. We have our first puncture since leaving home, thanks to a 4" nail. The tyre man asked for 100 dinar (almost €60) for the repair, and after I stopped laughing he got 10d. 

The highlight of Hammamet was the "Cultural Evening" at the big resort across the street - a band in baggy pants, belly dancers, tourist dancers. The next highlight would be leaving, with an overnight ferry from Tunis to Trapani in Sicily.